Travel in Grand Canyon
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Grand Canyon National Park is a United States National Park and a UNESCO World Heritage Site that is located entirely in northern Arizona and is one of the great tourist attractions in the United States. There are two ways to approach the Canyon: the remote North Rim and the more accessible (and therefore more crowded) South Rim. Both areas have several options for camping, as well as hotels and restaurants. Expect all of these facilities to be overflowing with visitors during the busy summer season. Fall, spring, and winter are all great times to visit the Grand Canyon.
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Understand
The Canyon is an overwhelming experience, and nothing can prepare a visitor for the sight; superlatives often fail to do the landscape justice. The Grand Canyon is a massive canyon carved over several million years by the Colorado River. Grand Canyon National Park boasts an elevation change of nearly 7,000 feet from Point Imperial (at nearly 9,000 feet) to the banks of Lake Mead (at just over 2,000 feet). The canyon itself is, from rim to river over a mile (5,280 feet) deep. In spots the rock layers exposed in the canyon display over two billion years of geologic history. There is no way that mere words can describe the place. You just have to see it.
History
The park was founded as Grand Canyon National Monument in 1908 by President Theodore Roosevelt, and became a national park in 1919. Today the park contains over 1.2 million acres, slightly less than the entire state of Delaware, and in 2004 received more than 4.3 million visitors.
Landscape
Flora and fauna
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WARNING: Don't feed the animals. It is unhealthy for them, and may be unhealthy for you. A seemingly tame squirrel will bite--and they carry plague and other diseases. A deer or elk can charge at you without warning. If the animal is aware of your presence, you're too close. |
Climate
Temperatures and weather within the park vary greatly by location. Temperature's on the North Rim are often 20 to 30 degrees (F) cooler than at the river. This is a land of extremes. It can be snowing at the rim, while others are comfortable sunbathing at the the river. Conversely, it can be cool and comfortable at the rim in the summer, while temperatures at the river exceed 120. It is not unusual for local canyon guides to encounter neophite hikers in desperate shape. Some die. An unusual number of fatalities occur among young males who overestimate their abilities.
- South Rim
- North Rim
- Inner Canyon
Get in
By car
The majority of visitors to the South Rim of the park arrive from the south on Arizona highway 64 North (AZ64N) (conjoined with US highway 180). Alternately, one can enter the south rim from the east on AZ64.
For the south entrance: from Flagstaff, you can take US hwy 180 (US180) northwest to Valle where it joins with AZ64N, and continue north to the south rim; or take I-40 west toward Williams to the junction with AZ64N and continue north to the south rim. Both routes are approximately 80 miles. The approx 60 miles on US180 is a narrow 2-lane mountain road through a heavily forested area. The I-40 west is a wide multi-lane interstate for approx 20 miles, to AZ64N route which is a slightly wider, less mountainous 2-lane highway, and the recommended route during winter weather.
For the east entrance, take US89 south from Page AZ or north from Flagstaff to the junction with AZ64 at Cammeron. It is approx 25 miles from the junction to the east entrance of the park, and approx 25 miles from the east entrance to the south rim village area.
Visitors to the North Rim use highway Alt-89 to highway 67 (closed in winter).
By bus
Several commercial tour buses run from Flagstaff, Phoenix, Las Vegas, and Los Angeles to both rims. Open Road Toursruns (http://www.openroadtours.com) a daily shuttle service to the south rim from both Phoenix and Flagstaff, as well as offering guided tours. Angel's Gate Tours (http://www.angelsgatetours.com) offers day tours, day hiking excursions, and overnight backpacking trips in the canyon.
By air
There is a small airport located just outside of the South Rim entrance in the town of Tusayan, but most visitors will fly into the larger airports in Flagstaff, Phoenix, or Las Vegas.
By railroad
The Grand Canyon Railway operates a steam locomotive from the town of Williams to the Grand Canyon Village, within easy walking distance of accommodations. The train features restored Pullman cars and has a staged old west style shootout. However, the Grand Canyon is not visible from the train. It is simply another option for traveling to the canyon.
Fees/Permits
All private vehicles entering the Grand Canyon must pay a $20 entrance fee, which is good for seven days. Individuals on foot or on a bike must pay a $10 entrance fee, also good for seven days. Those holding a National Park Pass ($50, good for one year) do not need to pay any entrance fee. A Golden Age pass ($10, good for life) is available to US citizens 62 and older.
Get around
Some of the view points are reachable by car, park service shuttle, motorcoach tour or on foot. You can go into the canyon by horse (on the Havasupai reservation), by mule (through guided tours from Xanterra (http://www.grandcanyonlodges.com)), on foot or by boat. From March through November the West Rim Drive is not accessible to most private vehicles (handicap vehicles may request a variance at the entry gate). The park service runs a shuttle during this time. The shuttles are frequent, but long lines form during the busy summer months.
Trans Canyon Shuttle an independent shuttle service runs between the North and the South Rim (No website, Tel 1.928.638.2820).
See
South Rim
- Grand Canyon Village. Good views, the trailhead of the Bright Angel Trail, historic buildings, and massive crowds.
- Desert View. Prior to construction of the railroad depot in Grand Canyon Village. The historic Watchtower here is a popular stop for many travelers and provides an excellent vantage point for viewing the canyon and Colorado River. It is a truly amazing experience.
- Hermits Rest. At the west end of Hermit Road, and the trailhead of the Hermit Trail. This gift shop/snack bar was designed by Mary Colter (the same person responsible for the Watchtower at Desert View) so as to resemble a Hermit's abode, and fit in harmoniously with the landscape. Constructed of a mix of stone and wood.
North Rim
Located only ten miles from the South Rim by air, the North Rim is a 215 mile (five hour) drive from Grand Canyon Village. At 8,000 feet the elevation of the North Rim is approximately 1,000 feet higher than the South Rim, and as a result features more coniferous trees and cooler temperatures. The roads to the North Rim are open only during the summer (from approx May 15 to the first fall snow fall), and with far fewer visitors this area can be a great place to enjoy the peace and majesty of the canyon.
Havasupai Indian Reservation
A popular destination in the canyon lies southwest of the park on the Havasupai Indian Reservation (http://www.havasupaitribe.com/). Havasupai can be loosly translated as "People of the Blue-Green Water". Entry into this remote portion of the canyon requires a $20 per person entry fee (plus an additional $10 per person/night to stay in the campground). Those venturing into Havasu Canyon are greeted by spectacular world class waterfalls. Although the Havasupai Reservation is somewhat impacted (trashy), the incredible canyon below the Supai Village is worth the visit. Access to Havasu Canyon is from Hualapai Hilltop north of Peach Springs, Arizona. It is an eight mile hike or horse back ride to Supai Village. Helicopter transportation to and from the village is available on a first come basis four days a week. An extremely rustic lodge is the only public accommodation available in Supai. A large mile long campground is located two miles down canyon inbetween Havasu and Mooney Falls. This campground can be extremely crowded in the summer months advance reservations are strongly recommended.
Do
- Look. The number one activity at Grand Canyon is to stop at a viewpoint and gaze into the majestic canyon.
- Nature walks. Nearly all visitors take a stroll along portions of the rim trail to enjoy the magnificent views.
- Hiking. Trails range in difficulty from fifteen minute loops to multi-week treks. The most popular trail is the Bright Angel Trail leaving from Grand Canyon Village near the Bright Angel Lodge. During the summer months water is available at the 1.5 mile resthouse, the 3 mile resthouse and Indian Gardens (4.5 miles). However, check to insure that the water is functioning before departing; water main breaks are common. There are numerous unmaintained trails throughout the park for the more adventurous. Guided hikes on many of the canyon trails are available from Angel's Gate Tours (http://www.angelsgatetours.com).
- Ranger programs. Programs include historical and ecological talks, movies, and museums. At the South Rim, special Junior Ranger programs are available for children in the summer. Check "The Guide", a free publication distributed throughout the park for dates and times.
- Motorcoach tours are available year round at the South Rim. Tours are offered for the East Rim/Desert View, West Rim/Hermit's Rest, and for Sunrise and Sunset. Smaller naturalist lead van tours originate from outside the park in Flagstaff, Williams and Tusayan. These van tours typically provide a more personal experience than the larger "cattle call" tours available from within the park.
- Mule rides. Trips into the canyon should be booked well in advance with Xanterra (http://www.grandcanyonlodges.com) due to demand. Weight limits of 200 pounds are strictly enforced. South Rim trips operate year round. Private stock users are required to carry all food for their animals, and permits are rarely issued.
- Grand Canyon Field Institute. GCFI (http://www.grandcanyon.org/fieldinstitute) offers educational classes in the canyon and at Grand Canyon Village.
- Star gazing. On your own (fantastic for meteor showers), or with the Grand Canyon Star Party every June at Yavapai Point.
- Whitewater Rafting trips. Commercial river trips are available from 1-19 days in the canyon. The only one day whitewater trip is available from the Hualapai Tribe's Hualapai River Runners (http://www.grandcanyonresort.com/rr/rr.html) in the far Western portion of the canyon near Las Vegas. The only other option for a one day river trip is a one day flat water float by Wilderness River Adventures (http://www.riveradventures.com/trips_float_trips.shtml) in Glen Canyon (just outside Grand Canyon National Park). The most popular section of river for the "true" Grand Canyon river experience lies between Lee's Ferry and Diamond Creek. The Grand Canyon River Outfitters Association (http://www.gcroa.org/Pages/outfitters2.htm) provides a complete list of outfitters for this section of river. Private (non-commercial DIY) river permits are also available for river trips up to 30 days in length. The new Colorado River Management Plan (http://www.nps.gov/grca/crmp) is in the process of changing private permitting procedures from a 12-20 year waitlist to a new weighted lottery. For more information on obtaining a non-commercial permit, visit the Grand Canyon Private Boaters Association (http://www.gcpba.org).
- Imax Movie. Visitor's to the south rim can go to the National Geographic Imax theatre outside of the park in Tusayan to see half hour presentation of "Grand Canyon, the Hidden Secrets". Showtimes are every hour on the half hour.
- Air Tours. Fixed-wing (airplane) and Helicopter tours are offered by providers outside of the south rim in Tusayan at the Grand Canyon Airport, and also from Las Vegas, NV. Scenic flights are no longer allowed to fly below the rim within the national park. Although, some helicopter flights land on the Havasupai and Hualapai Indian Reservations within Grand Canyon. For a list of current air tour operators visit the Grand Canyon (http://www.grand.canyon.national-park.com) information page.
- Bicycling is only allowed on park roads. It is not allowed on rim trails or in the inner canyon. The best mountain biking can be found on the North Rim and just outside the park in the Kaibab National Forest. Rim Tours (http://www.rimtours.com/tours/grand-canyon.html) offers multiday mountain bike tours on the North Rim, and bike rentals may soon be available on the South Rim.
- College Course. Visit www.grandcanyonsemester.nau.edu.
- View Wildlife/Bird Watching. Deer, elk, big horn sheep are just a few of the animals that can be seen in Grand Canyon. This is one of the few places on earth where you can see a California Condor soaring in the sky (amazing sight!). But please enjoy them at a distance!
Buy
All types of tourist trinkets relating to the Grand Canyon, native American Indians, and the American Southwest are available in shops in Grand Canyon Village on the South Rim. The South Rim is overflowing with shopping options. The North Rim has only one shop for postcards, T-shirts, etc.
Favorites
- Hopi House. This gift shop designed by Mary E. J. Colter turned 100 years old in 2005. It specializes in Native American crafts: Navajo Rugs, Hopi Kachina's, Zuni Fetishes, pottery, etc as well as T-shirts and souvenirs. The upstairs gallery offers Native American artworks.
- Lookout Studio was also designed by Colter features spectacular views of the canyon from it's overhanging patio, and specializes in rocks and fossils along with the souvenirs.
- Hermit's Rest, another Colter building blends into the canyon and offers a variety of souvenirs.
- Verkamps (http://www.verkamps.com/) is the one of the last privately held parcels within Grand Canyon National Park. Near the El Tovar hotel, it turns 100 in 2006.
Eat
South Rim
- El Tovar Hotel Dining Room. Fine dining for breakfast, lunch and dinner. Reservations accepted and recommended for dinner only. Dining room features partial canyon views.
- Arizona Room. Located on the East side of the Bright Angel Lodge. Dinner 4:30pm?10:00pm (open seasonally), lunch seasonally. Also features partial canyon views.
- Bright Angel Restaurant. Located in Bright Angel Lodge. Informal dining, open for breakfast, lunch and dinner.
Additional Cafeterias are located in the Maswik and Yavapai Lodges. There is a grocery deli at Market Plaza inside the grocery store, as well. Just outside the park, in the gateway community of Tusayan, are a number of dining selections. McDonalds and Wendy's are available for those who are looking for a quick meal. But fast food patrons beware! Canyon residents boast the second most expensive McDonalds in the country.
North Rim
- Grand Canyon Lodge Dining Room. Open daily, Mid-May through Mid-October (exact dates vary year to year), 6:30am-9:30pm. Wonderful food and an unrivaled view of the canyon. Serves breakfast, lunch, and dinner. Dinner reservations required. $7-$25.
- Cafe On The Rim. Serves cafeteria-style snacks, breakfast, lunch and dinner. Veggie burgers, salads, sandwiches. $1-$10.
- Coffee Saloon. Located in the Rough Rider Saloon. Coffee, bagels, and pasteries. 5:30am-10:30am.
Drink
South Rim
- El Tovar Lounge. South Rim in the El Tovar Hotel. Inside seating year round, patio seating overlooking the rim seasonally.
- Bright Angel Bar. South Rim in the Bright Angel Lodge. Live entertainment seasonally.
- Maswik Sports Bar. South Rim in Maswik Lodge. Pool table, darts, big-screen TV and more.
North Rim
- Grand Canyon Lodge Dining Room. North Rim. Serves cocktails.
- Rough Rider Saloon. North Rim.
Sleep
There are a variety of hotels, lodges, and campgrounds both inside and outside of the park on both the North and South Rims.
Lodging
South Rim
The following lodges are located inside Grand Canyon National Park, reservations can be made by contacting Xanterra (http://www.grandcanyonlodges.com).
- El Tovar Hotel. Historic full service hotel on the rim, refurbished in 2005, open year round. The finest accommodations available on the South Rim. Some rooms and suites boast a canyon view.
- Kachina Lodge and Thunderbird Lodge. Rim lodges built in the 60's, but renovated in 2004, open year round. Half the rooms face the canyon.
- Bright Angel Lodge. Historic Lodge at the rim, made up of cabins and lodge rooms generally rustic in nature. Some rooms without bathroom. Some are located rim side. Open year round.
Maswik and Yavapai Lodges are located away from the rim, and are generally considered budget and/or last minute accommodations.
Just outside the South Rim - Tusayan
- Best Western Squire Inn (http://www.grandcanyonsquire.com) Is the canyons only resort style property.
- The Grand Hotel (http://the-grand-hotel-grand-canyon.pacificahost.com) is the newest hotel in the area, and is popular.
- Holiday Inn Express Grand Canyon (http://www.grandcanyon.hiexpress.com). 164 guest rooms plus 30 one & two bedroom mini-suites & a new indoor pool & spa.
North Rim
- Grand Canyon Lodge. 1 (http://www.grandcanyonnorthrim.com). Offers a variety of cabins and motel style accommodations.
Inner Canyon
- Phantom Ranch is made up of cabins and dormitories (segregated by gender) with a dining hall. All Phantom Ranch accommodations and meals require advance reservations. There is no cooking allowed in the cabins or dorms, and guests without a meal reservation are not allowed in the dining hall at mealtimes. Recommendation is that if you don't want to pack in your own food, you reserve meals at the same time you reserve your bunk or cabin. Guests should check in at the Bright Angel Lodge Transportation desk before hiking down to Phantom Ranch, and can do so a day in advance of their hike.
Camping
Campgrounds are located at both the North and South Rims. Reservations are highly recommended, especially at the busier South Rim. Outside of the park, Kaibab National Forest has numerous undeveloped campsites. Since these sites are undeveloped be prepared to bring in (and out) everything that you'll need.
South Rim
- Mather Campground (Year round). Located in Grand Canyon Village, this campground offers sites suitable for camping and RVs (no hookups). Facilities include water and flush toilets. Costs are $15/night from April through November, $10/night from December through March. Reservations can be made at reservations.nps.gov or by calling (800) 365-2267, outside the U.S. call (301) 722-1257.
- Trailer Village (Year round). Located adjacent to Mather Campground, this campground offers RV sites with hookups. Costs are $25/night for two people, and $2 for each additional person. Reservations can be made by calling (888) 297-2757 (outside of the U.S. call 303-297-2757).
- Desert View Campground (May - October). Located 26 miles east of Grand Canyon Village, this campground offers tent and RV sites (no hookups). Costs are $10/night. All sites are first-come, first-served.
- Ten-X Campground (April - September). Located outside of the South Rim of the park, two miles south of Tusayan, this campground is operated by the forest service. Facilities include water and pit toilets. Costs are $10/night. All sites are first-come, first-served.
North Rim
- North Rim Campground (May - October). Located along the North Rim, this campground offers sites suitable for camping and RVs (no hookups). Facilities include water and flush toilets. Costs are $15-$20/night. Reservations can be made at reservations.nps.gov or by calling (800) 365-2267, outside the U.S. call (301) 722-1257.
- Jacob Lake Campground (Summer only). Located outside of the park, 45 miles north of the North Rim, this campground is operated by the forest service. Costs are $12/night. All sites are first-come, first-served.
Backcountry
Any camping below the rim in Grand Canyon requires a backcountry permit (http://www.nps.gov/grca/backcountry/index.htm). Permits must be obtained through the Backcountry Country Office (BCO) at Grand Canyon National Park. Permits are currently not available online or via telephone. They are only available in person, by fax or by mail.
Permits are limited to protect the canyon, and become available on the 1st day of the month, four months prior to the start month. Thus, a backcountry permit for any start date in May becomes available on January 1. Space for the most popular areas, such as the Bright Angel Campground adjacent to Phantom Ranch, generally fill up by the requests received on first date they are opened to reservations.
There are a number of outfitters that provide fully guided backpacking trips (including permits and gear) at Grand Canyon.
There is limited water available within the canyon, so backpackers should plan on carrying sufficient water with them.
All backcountry users are asked to follow "Leave no Trace" principles.
Stay safe
Do not attempt to hike to the bottom of the canyon and back in one day. Hundreds of hikers each year have to be rescued from the Inner Canyon due to exhaustion and dehydration. While the temperature on the canyon rim is cool due to its elevation, below the rim it can be very hot. The vertical distance to the bottom is about 1500m - that's 1.5 kilometers of vertical distance alone to climb back out. Remember that it is the opposite to climbing 1500m up a mountain. On a mountain climb you can stop and turn back when you get tired, knowing the the descent will be much easier. The canyon is a seducer - it feels ok hiking down into the canyon but when you come back up you find that you have over-extended yourself. The bottom of the canyon may be half-way in terms of distance, but in terms of exertion you have only just started. If you go to the bottom of the canyon, spend the night, and take enough food, water, shelter, and other backcountry camping equipment to keep yourself safe and sound. If you don't have the equipment, don't go.
Even for short walks into the canyon you must remember that it will be much harder going back up. Do not keep going until you feel tired. You need to stop well before that to be sure you can get out ok.
For more information: NPS back-country tips (http://www.nps.gov/grca/backcountry/tips.htm) and NPS smart hiking (http://www.nps.gov/grca/backcountry/smart.htm).
External links
- Official National Park Service site, covering North Rim, South Rim, River, Inner Canyon, Backcountry, etc. (http://www.nps.gov/grca/)
- Official South Rim concessionaire (http://www.grandcanyonlodges.com/)
- Official North Rim concessionaire (http://www.grandcanyonnorthrim.com/)